Arachatina M. Suturalis "Panda" - Giant African Land Snail - Gastropets

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Juvenile Archachatina Marginata Suturalis with "Panda" colouration (white with darker eye stalks / eyes).
 
Hatched around the 25th July 2025. Suturalis are a subspecies of Archachatina marginata native to Cameroon and Nigeria. They grow more quickly than Ovums and lay larger clutches of eggs, maturing at 11 months to 1 year of age. Prices reflect age, size and weight of individuals.
 
General Info: 
 
- Temperature: 24-29C 
- Humidity: 90%
- Adult size: 12-14cm
- Clutch size: 5-6 eggs
- Lifespan: 5 years+
- Needs lots of ground space to burrow, eat and move around
- Must have access to drinking water or (preferably) a large pool to soak in
 
 
SUTURALIS CARE GUIDE 
 
Enclosure: 
 
- You will need heat mats and a thermostat to safely achieve the right temperature.
- Plastic containers insulate better, but glass tanks work in a warm room with added outer insulation.
- Stick mats to the outside walls or lid to provide natural, gentle heat sources.
- Do not use heat lamps or cables inside the tank or under the soil due to the risk of burns. Their soil should be left unheated.
- Provide private spaces away from light - large tunnels of cork bark and fake plants are perfect for this.
- Enough floor space will reduce chances of burrowing under food and water bowls. They are little bulldozers.
- Double check lids or doors, ensuring they can’t be pushed open easily – they can escape, and they will eat wallpaper.
- A single adult Suturalis requires a container of 90L x 45H x 45D (cm) at minimum. With company, increase ground space by a third.
- Always provide calcium - either cuttlefish bone, or animal grade calcium powder. Mix with water to set in a bowl or on cork.
- Do not add food to their calcium. Can cause overconsumption and illness.
 
 
Substrate: 
 
- Use EntoScapes rainforest or insect focused substrate (such as for millipedes). AVOID COCO COIR.
- Snails need bacteria to digest their food - replace only 50% of their soil at most in one go.
- Consider springtails and isopods for a bioactive set up.
- Spot clean as needed.
 
Helpful hint: Invest in a pitcher or sundew style carnivorous plant near or on top of your enclosure. You will almost immediately notice a reduction once you bring one into your home. You're welcome.
 
 
Humidity: 
 
- Suturalis require high humidity - If it gets too low, they are likely to estivate.
- Note: Don’t disturb an estivating snail. Leave them to rest or rebury elsewhere if they must be moved. They will wake up once conditions improve.
- A large water bowl or pool is a must have to increase humidity - they will also spend hours soaking and sleeping in their pool, enjoying being slimy hippos.
- A drainage layer with clay balls and hydro fleece under the soil prevent waterlogging which can cause health issues. Especially important if they have a pool. Wet soil also smells bad. Can improve ambient humidity with added water to the clay layer. Also encourages good bacteria.
 
 
Enrichment: 
 
- Provide climbing opportunities (big cork branches are great), but floor space is most critical, spending most of their time on the ground.
- Consider including a turtle pool or similar - You will bring your snails pure joy with a large pool for them to soak in. A container or tub of at least 2 inches depth for adults is excellent.
- For babies, allow water to reach just below their mantle. Suturalis will not drown. They will go full submarine if you let them.
- Side note: Lissachatina Reticulata or Fulica also thoroughly enjoy pool time..!
- Change their water every couple of days with filtered/boiled/repti safe treated water - Chlorinated tap water will eventually harm them. Change more often if they have thrown in soil or pooped in it.
 
 
Behaviours: 
 
- Suturalis can spook easily, but can gain confidence with frequent interaction (not necessarily by handling them).
- In multi snail tanks, Suturalis can feel they are competing for resources. Until I brought a second pool in, mine would resource guard by chasing and biting. Provide extra pools/bowls for every 3rd snail.
- Ensure space to roam without crowding. If they are constantly running into or over each other, you need a bigger enclosure)
 
 
Artificial plants: 
 
A must have. Provides same benefits of a living plant without dying from:
 
- poor lighting
- being eaten
- being crushed/trampled
- fungus gnat root damage.
- Offers dappled light and shaded cover
- Creates additional hiding spots - Make snails feel safe, encouraging natural behaviours.
 
IMPORTANT: AVOID PLANTS EMBEDDED WITH WIRE!
However, as long as the wire does not become exposed, even from rough treatment, it should be safe to use. Always check your decor regularly to ensure it is still safe for use. I learned this the hard way, I hope you don't have to.
 
 
Other Decor: 
 
Avoid ceramic, stone and glass decor. These WILL cause damage when your snail falls, and they will fall.
Avoiding a hard landing is a must. Use cork bark and branches, plastic or stainless steel. They may still smack the side of their glass tank, but this is fine.
 
 
Eggs: 
 
Disposing of eggs is easy. You can leave fresh eggs out of the tank to dehydrate them, which will cause them to crack. For eggs partly or mostly developed, you should freeze and then dispose in general waste or compost. You can also crush the eggs to give back to the adults to recycle nutrients.
 
I care deeply about my animals, even after they have arrived at their new homes! If you have any issues or concerns, please don’t hesitate to contact me with your questions!